Sounds Good

by mitch2 on

Description

Simple to use, musical, dynamic and just plain enjoyable to listen to...
Read more...

Room Details

Dimensions: 21’ × 18’  Large
Ceiling: 9’

Components Toggle details

    • Mojo Audio Deja Vu EVO Media Server/Streamer
    Mojo Audio's latest server/streamer using their menu driven media optimized RAM-root Linux operating system
    • Mojo Audio Mystique EVO PRO D/A Converter
    Non-oversampling direct-coupled R-2R DAC built around Analog Devices monolithic AD1862 R-2R ladder DAC chips with no pre-digital filtering, digital noise shaping, upsampling, oversampling, or error-correcting algorithms.

    Five independent choke input power supplies, sixteen Belleson regulators, direct-coupled output stage incorporating Staccato class A discrete op amps and ultralow-noise Vishay TX2575 "nude" resistors that are laser matched to 0.1% tolerance, a star/plain grounding scheme, Lundahl amorphous core LC input chokes in the analog power supplies, and more.

    • Hattor The Big Preamp
    Uses Amtrans AMRG carbon resistors to provide independent volume control of each channel, or balance adjustment.  Includes the NewClassD op-amp active stage with switchable gain settings of +3/6/9 dB.  Remote control and display are the best I have had for a preamp.  Whether running this in passive mode in front of either my SMc unity-gain buffer, or in front of the Hattor Tube Active Stage (+6dB) this is easily the best -sounding passive I have used compared to Goldpoint, Endler, and Bent-type transformer Jay-Sho.  The internal op-amp active stage also sounds very good putting this as one of the best sounding active preamps I have owned out of many.
    • Hattor Audio Tube Active Stage
    A tube buffer set for an active stage providing 6dB gain (stock units are 9dB).  Unit came with NOS ECC82 (12AU7/5963) Jan Phillips tubes and I also have tried it with Mullards.  This active stage provides a very nice sounding complement to the Hattor Big Preamp run in passive mode.
    • SMc Audio DNA-1 Ultra G20 MonoblockS
    A pair of McCormack Audio DNA-1 amplifiers converted to monoblocks and upgraded by SMc Audio (i.e., Steve McCormack) to the highest upgrade level offered by Steve in the spring of 2020.  Highlights include; New faceplates, powder-coated chassis and heatsinks, large Plitron low-noise transformers, circuit and grounding upgrades, Lundahl input transformers, new power capacitors, special capacitors and resistors in strategic locations, special wire, Stillpoint mini footers, Cardas binding posts, and SMc Audio's new Gravity Base on each of the amps.  

    As the picture shows, the amps sit on Silent Running Audio (SRA) Ohio-Class XL+2 platforms configured using SRA's Component Specific Design™, which means the folks at SRA configured the platforms specifically for my amplifiers, considering their weight, dimensional footer configuration, and location of the heavy transformers.  The SRA platforms are supported on their own spikes and decoupling discs, supported on the lower shelf of a quarter-sawn oak table that is "decoupled" from the concrete floor in my listening room using Herbie's Big Fat Dots.  The lower shelf is also reinforced with vertical oak members at several strategic locations, resulting in a very solid base for the SRA platforms.

    For awhile, I was using 5 individual springs to support each amp over the SRA bases but have removed those to reduce height in the new stand.  The SRA people will tell you their platforms do not require the use of any additional audiophile footers.  
    • Aerial Acoustics Model LR5
    Retains the virtues of my former Model 9s, with tight tuneful bass you can feel, open mids, and smooth highs. The SR5s improve on the bass of the Model 9s with a better roll-off response and more detail due to the dual 9-inch sealed bass reflex design vs. the ported Model 9s.  While these Model LR5s do not go quite as low as the 9s, the bass above 40Hz is of a higher quality and the addition of dual Aerial SW12 subs more than makes up the difference while helping better balance the bass response in my room.  A smooth, relaxed, yet punchy sounding speaker, that is not overly analytical but can be very hard hitting indeed when properly powered. 

    Supported on custom made Sound Anchor Signature Stands that are now spring-supported over the carpeted concrete floor. The springs were sized for the weight and damped using thin-wall heat shrink with a couple of small holes in the side.

    These speakers sound excellent with a wide variety of music, but the lower 85dB (4 ohm) efficiency is noticable relative to the 90dB rated Model 9s.  While my previous Class A Clayton amps could adequately drive them, the 650 wpc SMc Ultra G amps really make them sing.  I have always liked the sound of Mike Kelly speakers, and these carry the tradition.
    • Aerial Acoustics SW-12 (dual subs)
    Running dual SW12 subs for outstanding bass response that I can tailor to the room.  These are very nice, musical and powerful sounding subs that fill in the lowest octave with tight bass and great impact. They seamlessly accept the hand-off from the LR5s below 40Hz.  Supported on dedicated Sound Anchor stands and decoupled from the floor using damped springs.
    • Isoclean 60 A3 II
    60 amp power conditioner.
    • FORMER HISTORICAL SYSTEMS AND COMPONENTS BELOW HERE .....
    • SMc Audio TLC-1 Signature Edition
    The TLC-1 SE was a collaboration between myself and Steve McCormack and one of the pictures shows the newly completed unit on Steve's workbench. This is a completely reworked TLC-1 that has all upgrades from available SMc Audio in 2014, and utilizes the choke power supply, Lundahl transformers and the Shallco discrete resistor volume control used in Steve's VRE-1B preamp, along with other improvements Steve came up with in this all-out rebuild of a classic preamp. The current configuration of this unit is as a unity-gain buffer with the Shallco volume control being decommissioned and replaced by two, large, Audio Note Tantalum silver resistors for a fixed unity-gain.  I first modified this as a buffer to allow the use of a DAC with internal volume control but after adding the Mystique EVO, which does not have a volume control, I also added the Khozmo passive unit so I could have a remote volume control with a display.
    I have tried/owned many preamps throughout the years and this is the best.  As a buffer without volume control and in conjunction with the Hattor BIG passive volume control it sounds outstanding.
    • Antipodes DX
    The flagship server by Antipodes with 2TB internal SSD, linear power supplies and many other features resulting in an easy-to-use, exceptional sounding music server.
    Generation 3 upgrades installed and currently using the DX as a Roon Server with a separate Roon endpoint.  This is no longer their flagship but it continues to sound very good as both a server for my stored files and a renderer for Roon/Tidal.  I also continue to enjoy the convenience of ripping CDs to the same box.
    • Metrum Acoustics Adagio DAC
    The Adagio is Metrum's flagship DAC with internal volume control and, along with their Pavane, is the best I have owned for the money.  In direct comparison with the Pavane that I also owned, the two were very close to the point where having the remote volume option of the Adagio outweighed any small sonic differences (which may have slightly favored the Pavane).  Both the Adagio and Pavane provide a rich, powerful sound, with a very nice balance between resolution and tonality.  The sound from these DACs can be further tailored by inserting a preamp or buffer (in my case) between the DAC and power amplifier.
    • Metrum Acoustics Ambre
    Roon endpoint connected to the Antipodes DX by Ethernet and then to the Adagio DAC via I2S to the I2S input replacement board offered by Metrum.  I have tried other inputs and have found AES/EBU to be a close second to the I2S connection.  I did not find the USB or bnc connections to sound as good as I2S or AES/EBU.  
    I compared the Ambre endpoint directly with the SOtM Triad (which I also owned) consisting of the: 
    -sMS-200ultra Neo 
    -tX-USBultra regenerator 
    -sPS-500 Power Supply
    IME/IMO the differences between the two endpoints were subtle and not significant enough to worry about with the Ambre being a bit more dynamic and the SOtM pieces being maybe a touch more midrange-concentric for those who like and/or need that in their systems.  In the end, the ability to use I2S instead of only USB, the convenience of one box vs. 3, and the relative SQ led me to sell the SOtM gear and use the Ambre.  I have a baby Ambre with the Jade for my outdoor system and those also sound pretty good.
    • Metrum Pavane Level 3
    Balanced NOS DAC with USB input and extended range output transformers. Very natural sounding with excellent body, tone and texture; exceptional bass, smooth and refined treble, and great depth and soundstaging. This DAC betters the (quite good) Hex in every way.
    Briefly owned the flagship Adagio with internal volume control and perceived a slightly richer more powerful sound from the Pavane through my preamp in a direct comparison, while the Adagio displayed better resolution and detail.  The result was to have my Pavane upgraded to Level 3 using the same high resolution Transient DAC chips used in Adagio and the result is outstanding with just the right amount of resolution and rich tonality.
    • Clayton Audio M300 Monoblocks
    Class A monoblocks with 300wpc into 8 ohms and 600wpc into 4 ohms, all in Class A.  Power supply/amplifiers upgraded by Clayton in 2016.  Winner of the Claylamack shoot-out and the best sounding amplifiers I have ever owned.
    Supported on Sound Anchor stands and edenSound Bear Paws with edenSound TerraStone footers retrofitted on the amps in place of the stock aluminum footers.  I made quarter-sawn oak platforms for the tops of the Sound Anchor stands, mostly for cosmetic purposes.
    • Clayton Audio M300 Monoblocks 2/2
    • Total DAC USB, W4S, HD Plex PS, and Curious Link Digital Cables and Connection
    The USB connection between the Antipodes DX and Metrum Pavane includes the Totaldac USB cable/filter into the W4S Recovery powered by an HD Plex linear power supply and finally a Curious link (short cable) into the DAC.
    • Claylamack Tri-Amplification
    You can never have too much power...
    • Sound Anchor 4 Shelf Stand
    Compact Sound Anchor stand is perfect for my equipment. Electronic components sit on Herbies Tenderfeet directly on the steel bar supports of the stand. The stand is supported on edenSound Bear Paws through the carpet and directly on the concrete floor. The top shelf is a quartersawn oak top I made from a board.
    • Stands, Isolation, Damping Sound Anchor, Herbies, edenSound
    I employ a variety of damping and isolation products and everything is supported on Sound Anchor stands. Electronics were recently moved from my heavy Sound Anchor rack to very solid quartersawn oak furniture with the digital front end in a heavily reinforced cabinet and the preamp on the lower level of a quartersawn oak table.  Aerial LR5 speakers are supported on custom Sound Anchor Signature Stands with edenSound feet and mono amps are supported on Sound Anchor low profile weighted amp stands with quartersawn oak platforms between the amps and stands.  The dual SW12 subs are supported on Sound Anchor cradle bases. The electronic components and amps sit on a variety of edenSound Terrastone or Herbies footers directly supported by the described stands. Electronic components are damped with edenSound solid brass damping weights finished with EAR Isodamp on the bottom.
    • Cables....... DIY with Copper in Cotton or PCOCC
    I have tried many cables over the years and after coming full circle it is my experience that while cables do make a difference, you can get very good sound with a variety of DIY options. Most recently, I have been using Duelund 20 ga balanced ICs and dual quads of cross-connected Duelund 12 ga wires in a bi-wire configuration to each speaker.  I also still occasionally use Jupiter Condenser 6N copper in cotton IC cables that I have found to sound very nice.   I will eventually be comparing the Duelund wire with my NOS vintage WE10awg speaker cables.  Still using power cables made with WE 10 ga wires and high quality connectors. I keep cables as short as practical, with only the ICs from DAC to preamp being over 1M.  I also have cables here by Furutech, Neotech and Harmonic Technology that I have terminated and which sound very good. I will never again spend big bucks on manufactured cables, although I do admit to having one 2M Isoclean Auto Focus power cord that I use when I move things around and need a longer cord for some reason.
    • Western Electric (NOS) 7 awg DIY Power Cables
    Power cables constructed from the WE 10 awg wire using a pair of wires to each the load, neutral and ground for an aggregate of 7awg to each pole.  Unshielded and constructed using Furutech FI-11 (Cu) connectors.  Currently using them on the Clayton monoblocks and the SMc preamp.
    • McCormack-SMc Audio DNA-2 LAE Signature Edition 1/3 (gone)
    DNA-2 LAE platform, with 300/600 watts per channel into 8/4 ohms, using Lundahl transformers, all new caps including Jupiter copper foil caps, and many other new parts. Captive power cord eliminates one connection. Supported on Sound Anchor stand with edenSound Bear Paw footers.   This is a great-sounding amp that I still own but is not currently in my system because the Claytons are a bit better.  Can't bring myself to sell this for a too-low price so will hang onto it until I figure out a need for it.
    • McCormack-SMc Audio DNA-2 LAE Signature Edition 2/3
    DNA-2 LAE Signature Edition All available upgrades by SMc Audio in 2014.
    • McCormack-SMc Audio DNA-2 LAE Signature Edition 3/3
    DNA-2 LAE Signature Edition All available upgrades by SMc Audio in 2014.
    • Acoustic Imagery Atsah (not currently in the system)
    Monoblock amplifiers using Bruno Putzeys Ncore Class D technology, NC1200 amplifier modules for 400wpc/8ohm and 1200wpc/2ohm power and 128dB S/N Ratio. I have taken these out of my system in favor of the SMc Audio DNA-2 LAE Signature Edition
    • Mac mini Computer Source 2012 (gone)
    2012 Mac mini i7 source with 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, 1TB HDD, and Glyph GTP50 for back ups. Output through USB Wireworld Starlight cable into ifi Purifier, then ifi Power then Gemini dual USB cable (using only the signal link) into the Hex DAC
    • MUSE Erato II Player (gone)
    The MUSE Erato II player is beguiling. A CD and high-rez DVD player that does all the audio things right, but also displays a very evenhanded presentation where no single area detracts from the whole. There is absolutely no digital grain and, to go further, this player has a way with attack and decay that is very believable while imparting a dimensionality and roundness to the musical presentation. It is hard to explain but, when you hear it, you know it is good. I kept this player after a long-term comparison with an Ayre C-5xeMP player, which was quite good in the bass and detailed, but was not quite as enjoyable overall – I keep going back to the MUSE. This I no longer own this but will keep the picture/description for those who may be interested in this not too well known MUSE player that also has the on-board preamp option and can be run directly to the amplifiers.
    • Tweeks - Currently Using
    Furutech GTX-D(R) and Porter Port outlets, edenSound brass damping weights, Shakti Stones, edenSound Terrastone footers, Cable Elevators Plus, EVS Ground Enhancers
    • April by the Pool in Michigan
    This is what you SoCal people miss out on.
    • WE 16awg & 14awg Star Quad Bi-Wire
    Pair of star quad, bi-wire speaker cables made from Western Electric NOS tinned copper wire with two runs of 16awg wire to the MF/HF of each pole and two runs of 14awg wire to the LF of each pole. Cardas GRS spades, soldered to the tinned wire using Cardas quad eutectic solder

Comments 64

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Owner
Been playing around this system a bit, primarily by upgrading from my Mojo Audio Mystique EVO B4B21+ to their EVO PRO model, which includes Lundahl amorphous core LC input chokes in the analog power supplies and provides a very similar sonic signature while moving toward an even more natural presentation.  

I have also been comparing preamp set-ups again with some surprising results.  One thing for sure, the Hattor products punch way above their weight.  I have been using The Big Preamp in passive mode to control volume in front of my SMC Audio unity-gain buffer then to the amps.  The other set-up options I considered include using the Hattor preamp with active gain provide by the internal NewClassD op-amp stage (switchable to +3/6/9 dB), or using the Hattor Tube Active Stage that I also own.  The results were surprisingly close for me and had I not already owned the SMc Audio preamp/buffer I would have been happy with the Hatter Big Preamp and its own internal NewClassD op-amp output stage.  Both the op-amp stage and the tube stage sound slightly more open than the SMc Audio buffer, which displays a bit more density but an overall darker sounding presentation.  All three options sound quite good with the Hattor tube stage being a nice compromise between the density of the SMc Audio buffer and the slightly greater openness of the NewClassD op-amp active stage.  As a result, I have decided to box the SMc Audio preamp for now and focus on running my system through the Hattor Big Preamp in passive mode in front of the Hattor Tube Active Stage.  I will easily be able to switch between the tube stage and the internal op-amp stage for further comparisons.  My favorite gain setting of the internal op-amps is 3dB and my tube stage was constructed to have 6dB gain instead of the typical stock version, which is 9dB.

mitch2

Owner
System page update as of April 24, 2021.  Hopefully, I am done for a long while after adding the Mojo Audio server and dac, moving my SMc amps to a new location so I can reincorporate my Sound Anchor stand for the preamp and volume control, and decoupling everything including all three stands using Herbie's dBNeutralizer dots or gliders, and the speakers and subs using damped springs.  I also added double runs of HT Pro 9+ speaker cables to each main speaker as I have not found anything I like better than the HT OCC solid-core wire in foamed PE insulation.  The heavy 6 awg to each speaker certainly provides a low resistance flow path.

Since everything is SS and remains powered up all the time, and since I now use fully digital and remote interfaces through Roon/Tidal and stored music, this system certainly meets my "easy to operate" requirement.  It also has never sounded better....clear, rich, controlled, and dynamic as all get out!  I just can't imagine what I would consider changing except maybe to occasionally try a different USB cable or tweak.  I do plan to try adding Qobuz because I am curious but not because I am unhappy with Tidal, which I use without MQA.

mitch2

Owner
Been almost 4 years since updating my system page.  This system is for the most part done.  I may tweak a few things here or there but I have achieved the basic sound quality I am looking for (after 20 years!) with the addition of the SMc Audio DNA-1 Ultra G20 Monoblocks.  Steve has been threatening to build me a purpose-built buffer based on the VRE-0.5 platform but thus far he has been too busy and I haven't seen the need to push it because things sound so good as-is with the TLC-1 buffer.  I can add a few more updates about some of the digital interface stuff I have done but what is posted here covers most of it.  It has been fun putting this together, but even more fun spending less time changing and updating.

mitch2

Owner

The boys are back in town!

After two years of looking for the perfect amplifier for my system, I am right back where I started with a pair of Clayton M300 Class A monoblocks.  These are just back from Clayton after receiving a full power supply upgrade (basically a reconstruction and upgrade of the amplifiers with larger low-noise transformers, upgraded capacitors and other parts) and they sound outstanding.  They are sitting on Sound Anchor sand-filled steel stands with custom-made 1.75-inch quarter-sawn white oak wood platforms and edenSound brass Bearpaws on concrete.  TerraStones on the way from edenSound to replace the stock aluminum footers.

My 2-year search included a pair of Acoustic Imagery NC1200 Class D amplifiers (Bruno Putzey’s Ncore),  a pair of Lamm M1.2 Reference hybrid Class A amplifiers, and a McCormack DNA-2 LAE with SMc Audio’s top-level upgrades (that I still own).  These are all very good amplifiers but IMO none of them quite reach the combination of dynamics, body, rich tone and control of the 300 wpc Claytons, which run fully in Class A.  They do run hot, but there is a low bias switch which cools things off a bit when I am not listening.  It was a pleasure working with Wilson Shen on what is now my third pair of Clayton amplifiers. 

mitch2

Owner
System edited: Changes this year included; 1. Adding the Antipodes DX, which was a significant improvement over a Mojo Mac mini, 2. Adding the Metrum Pavane DAC, which improves on the very good sounding Hex in just about every way, and 3. Finally settling in on the SMc Audio/McCormack DNA-2 LAE amplifier, which has every upgrade Steve offers. As I listen, I am not sure what I could do or add that would make a meaningful improvement. Currently cooking some WE speaker cables I made but not really expecting a substantial (if any) improvement from trying those wires. I may try Empirical Audio's Off Ramp between the Antipodes DX and the Pavane, or maybe think about Aerial's 20T speakers but otherwise, I am just going to enjoy some great tunes with the best sounding system I have ever had.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: I have been lucky with the system changes I made over the past year. The SMc TLC-1 SE (almost VRE) preamp and Aerial 9's continue to anchor things. Both of those have kept pace with every other system improvement and just keep sounding better and better. I finally decided to keep the Acoustic Imagery Atsah monoblocks, which are Class D amplifiers using the Ncore, NC1200 modules and power supply by Bruno Putzeys. I like how they sound and how easy they are to operate, being small monoblocks that stay powered up all the time. Adding the Antipodes DX music server was another positive move. The DX is Antipodes' current flagship, and it sounds great and is extremely easy to use. The whole thing is tied together with a variety of DIY cables that are the best I have heard in any of my systems. 2015 will see a change in DACs, likely to the Metrum Pavane, but nothing else on the horizon. It is a sunny day in March and about time to oil some bicycle chains here in Michigan.

mitch2

Owner
Hi Bill,
I compared the NC1200 Atsah amps directly to the Clayton M300s back in March and then directly to the SMc amp in November. Unfortunately, I was unable to compare the SMc and Clayton amps head-to-head since I had a buyer for the Claytons before the SMc amp was finished.

I liked the Ncore amps both times I had them in my system. Everybody talks about how resolving they are but, honestly, I think the SMc amp is more resolving, especially from the mid to high frequencies. What I like about the Ncore amps is this sort of chunky, dense tonality that seems to radiate out from the midrange. This is more in common with the Class A Claytons than with the Class A/B SMc amp. The Ncore bass provides a dense underpinning to everything but the bass is actually fuller and a bit more dynamic from the SMc amp.

There are sonic pluses and minuses to each of the three amps, and other listeners may call it differently. For me, it is important to have amplifiers that can remain powered up and ready to go with a minimum of fuss or waiting for warm-up. The SMc amp has a great stand-by function and the Atsahs can remain powered up. The Claytons were not good amps to leave powered up because of the heat they generate and the energy they require, even when they are not playing music.

While I could live with either of the three amps, the SMc and Atsah amps meet my lifestyle requirements best. However, after the 10-day audition, I simply couldn't decide which I liked best so I am planning a somewhat longer audition before making a final choice between the two. I will post some more thoughts and comparisons as I listen further.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: Another year, another amplifier;

2015, Acoustic Imagery Atsah monos,
2014 SMc Audio Signature Edition DNA-2 LAE,
2011-2013, Clayton M300 Class A monos.

Not sure why the amplification link in my system seems elusive. My goals are simple, ease of use and great sound.

The ease of use requirement includes leaving the amps turned on all the time, which prohibits tube mplifiers, even hybrids like the Lamm M1.1 Class A monos I used to own. I just added the Ncore based C1200 Acoustic Imagery Atsah monos and still own the tricked out SMc DNA-2 LAE. Based on my time with these, both are great sounding amplifiers and I will be comparing them further.

mitch2

Owner
You are correct Bill, we decided to use the new Jupiter copper foil caps, which Steve thinks are maybe the best he has heard in the application used.

Since my speakers had sat unused for about 3 months as I was waiting for the amp to be completed, it took a little time for things to come around but, with less than 50 hours of listening, things are now singing along just great with some of the best, if not the best, music I have ever heard from my system. High points are an incredible dimensionality, excellent tonality, very powerful bass, clarity and resolution throughout the entire frequency range and a touch of mid-bass warmth that I remembered from a standard DNA-2 I owned years ago and hoped would be preserved in this much higher quality version that Steve rebuilt.

Steve also tweaked the TLC-1 Signature Edition preamp he previously constructed for me by replacing the toroidal transformer in the outboard power supply with a Plitron, replacing the internal Lundahl transformers with their latest version that uses Cardas wiring, further improving the internal wiring, and other improvements I can't remember right now although I believe there may be a Jupiter copper foil bypass cap in the power supply.

With all the new caps and other parts used in the rebuild, I will not be surprised for things to continue improving over time but I have heard enough to be very happy with the results of these projects. I really do need to work up a review to let others know about the great work Steve did on these pieces.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: Back in business..... SMc Audio DNA-2 Signature Edition amplifier is acclimating nicely.

mitch2

Owner
Hi Rob, I have considered trying a USB/spdif converter but I want to make sure I am serious about it so not to take advantage of a manufacturer's 30-day return option. Reviewers have reported how good the stock USB input in the HEX sounds, so I will only consider a really good converter, like a souped up Off-Ramp.
I will probably wait until I get all my gear back and listen for awhile before making the decision of whether to try one. Thanks for sharing your opinion on the Off Ramp.

mitch2

Owner
Hi Rhanson739, the sound through the upgraded mini is quite enjoyable and, for me, worth the cost. Compared to before the upgrades, I would say there is better depth and dimensionality, and lower noise.

If you were to send Ben your mini and OWC drive, he could do all the upgrades he did for me and also power both your mini and the OWC drive from the Joule III power supply. He was running a special on the PS so maybe you could get it for a few bucks off. The downtime was minimal and he said he usually turns these around in a day or two.

Do you like your Off Ramp 5? I have considered trying one but have wondered whether there would be any improvement compared to going directly into the HEX with unpowered USB.

mitch2

Owner
Hi Bill, yes the digital source sounds quite natural and enjoyable. I appreciate the tip to try Mojo Audio. The service was first rate and Ben provided excellent communication, a super fast turn-around, and a great sounding product. I will reserve final judgement on just how good it sounds until I can hear it on something other than my headphones.

Regarding my amps, Steve McCormack has my TLC preamp he upgraded over a year ago, and is currently going all out on the upgrade of a DNA-2 LAE amplifier for me. He is using the new Jupiter copper foil caps in strategic locations in both the amp and preamp and he says they are among the finest he has heard.

The preamp was already very good and includes his Shallco discrete resistor volume control, Lundahl transformers and the outboard VRE-1 choke power supply. We revised the faceplate and painted the body as part of the initial upgrade (picture above). He is now replacing some existing caps with the Jupiters and replacing the existing Lundahl transformers with their new Cardas wire version. He is also backing off the gain to +0 out of the transformers to account for the higher gain of the DNA-2 amplifier compared to the Claytons I used to own. This is a buffered preamp and my original concerns about bass from a no-gain design were absolutely unfounded as the bass is one of the many strengths of this preamp.

The amplifier should also be special as he is incorporating all his best work based on everything he has learned by upgrading other DNA-2s over the years, and he is using some parts that were not available in earlier years, like the new Jupiter caps. The LAE was already a hot rodded version of the DNA-2 with thicker circuit boards and higher quality parts like Vishay S-102 bulk-metal-foil resistors. I previously owned both a Standard DNA-2 and the DNA-500 and I considered having modifications performed on a DNA-500. After discussions with Steve, I decided the basic sonic attributes of the DNA-2 were better suited to my listening tastes and he convinced me the upgraded amp would be outstanding.

Below is a quote from Steve, from another, older Audiogon thread that is consistent with how Steve described the DNA-2 to me:
The sound of the DNA-2 is best characterized as clean, open, and relaxed, with tremendous dynamics when required. Bass is deep and powerful, but is a bit rich, with a bit of added warmth in the upper-bass / lower-mid region. This warmth can be very engaging in the right system. Focus and clarity are excellent, and the soundstage is open and deep.
Here is another quote where Steve discusses differences between the DNA-500 and an upgraded DNA-2:
In brief, the DNA-500 is a new design and clearly reflects this in its performance. It is more neutral than the earlier amps, more like a window on the performance. The DNA-2 (including the fully upgraded versions) has more of an identifiable personality, with a bit of roundness and warmth. Both are extremely powerful and are able to drive any speaker with ease and authority, but the dynamic reach of the DNA-500 can be literally frightening. The 500 is also built with an excellent parts complement. On the other hand, the DNA-2 Revision A upgrade is totally rebuilt with the finest parts I have found. This gives it an edge in relaxed liquidity and instrumental texture. It fleshes out voices and instruments in a very seductive way.
To close, I have to add that working with Steve has been a pleasure. His communication is friendly and personable and, even after all these years in the business, his passion for the industry, for his work and for his clients remains strong.

mitch2

Owner
Progress...got my upgraded Mac mini back from Ben at Mojo Audio this week with some surprise music loaded.

I will be glad to get the rest of my system back from Steve McCormack so I can hear music again - I know he is hard at work and I expect outstanding results (no pressure).

For now the Mac mini source through a Channel Islands VHP-2 amp with VAC-1 power supply and Sennheiser HD650 headphones sounds fantastic.

The upgrade included shipping my 2012 Mac mini i7 with 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD and 1TB HDD internal to Ben at Mojo who did the following;
1. Removed the 1TB drive leaving only the SSD internal,
2. Removed the internal SMPS and added the Mojo filter with a hard wired DC power cable,
3. Added a Mojo Joule III power supply with an XLR jack for for connecting the hard wired cable from the mini,
4. Added an external OWC Mercury Elite Pro drive enclosure with a 2 TB AV drive,
5. Included a special Mojo Audio Firewire 800 cable transmitting signal only (no power) to connect the external 2 TB drive to the mini,
5. Powered the external 2 TB drive using the Joule III PS,
6. Optimized the mini for music playback.

The rest of my digital front end is the same as before, with a 3M Wireworld Starlight USB cable from the mini into an ifi Power/ground isolation device (disconnected from power supply) and then the ifi Gemini cable (signal only) into a Metrum Hex (which has an internally powered asynchronous USB input - so doesn't need BUS power on the USB cable). Still using Pure Music as a player, with Memory Play and upsampled to 44.1/88.2.

I am looking forward to hearing this upgraded source when I get my gear back but my initial impressions through the headphone set-up are very favorable. Nice work Ben!

mitch2

Owner
System edited: Claytons are gone. Preamp is back at SMc. Mini is at Mojo. Headphones still work - thankfully.

mitch2

Owner
Hi Lak,
Thank you for the kind words.
Your post prompted me to enter some system updates that I have made since spring centering around adding a computer source using a mac mini and Metrum Hex DAC.
Potential upcoming changes include trying new amps and then possibly some upgrades to the computer source. I am auditioning a pair of Ncore 1200 amps next week and I am also in the process of having another amp upgraded/rebuilt that I will try against the Claytons.
I am using Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ bi-wired speaker cables and for my tastes they sound just fine. They provide great body and a full sounding bass. I like that they use individually insulated, small diameter, solid core, OCC wires since I have definitely come to like the sound of solid core better than stranded. I have had various HT speaker cables apart for reterminations and there is probably more damping stuff inside than needed but the small OCC wires and geometry get the job done. Thanks again for your feedback. - Tim

mitch2

Owner
System edited: After years of buying and trying equipment and cables, this system hits a sweet spot for me. I am fortunate to have put together such a satisfying system of gear from four top audio designers and I really think I am done this time....well, except for maybe a computer based source in the future.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: More changes - I recommissioned an old stand I had constructed so that I could shorten cables and try some passive preamp options. I added a back shelf for the Tom Evans power supply and some new paint and I am pretty happy with it. Maybe just because it is different, but I do like the ease of everything being out in the open and the ability to use really short cables. I will shortly figure out where to put the cabinet so it is away from the left speaker. I am also working on a new preamp option but it will be awhile before I receive it. Until then, the Tom Evans easily beat out the passive options I tried.

mitch2

Owner
Ok, some more changes in the works. I recently reintroduced an old DIY single shelf stand that supports the MUSE player. The Ayre player is in the on-deck circle to be substituted in occasionally since the new set-up does not allow for two players at onece. The Tom Evans preamp is now on a Z-slab then a constrained layer platform spiked to the floor with Audio Points to create what appears to be the lower level of the stand. The Pulse power supply is on a shelf between the lower and upper portions of the stand. Moving everything out of the tall wood cabinet has allowed me to shorten all the cables to 1M or less, including speaker cables. I am attempting to post pictures of the new set-up but cannot currently access my virtual system due to the Audiogon site changes and beta testing.

The Harmony buffer did not work out for me. My system sounded clearly better with the preamp run into the Jensen transformers instead of with the buffer in-line. It may work better in other systems.

I am currently trying some Endler balanced in-line attenuators that were loaned to me - and I am intrigued by the sound, especially the mid through high frequencies, which sound very natural. The bass and dynamics seem just a touch soft compared to an active preamp. Unfortunately, I did not have the Harmony Buffer long enough to try it with the in-line attenuators as it would have been interesting to see if having a buffer in-line would improve bass and dynamics.

I will shortly be trying a new product from SMc Audio that will take the place of the transformers. It is called the Interocitor One and is supposed to offer a few benefits over the Jensen transformers, including higher input impedance, lower output impedance, and the ability to work with any combination of rca and XLR inputs and outputs. It is said to be made with very high quality components based on what Steve McCormack has learned working with transformers in his amp upgrades and in the VRE-1 (which I would really like to try). I will provide an update on the Interocitor One after I have had it in my system for awhile.

I am continuing to look for a balanced preamp that I like better than the Tom Evans Vibe/Pulse II and Jensen transformer combination. I have tried a bunch of preamps over the years and it seems all the ones I have liked best were single-ended, and most had tubes, except for the Tom Evans. The VRE-1 would certainly be one to try but, due to their new pricing structure, that is not a current option for me. Others I have thought about trying include VTL 6.5 Signature, Levinson 326s and the Purity Reference.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: Over the past year or so, my system has become relatively stable. I have achieved my sonic goals without using tubes, which is better for my lifestyle and listening habits. The most recent changes this year included a power supply upgrade to the Clayton M300's, which improved dynamics and bass; switching from the Aerial factory metal speaker bases to custom built Sound Anchor speaker bases with Eden Sound Bear Paw footers that resulted in improvements in physical stability, and sonic focus, clarity, and depth; and switching back to Harmonic Technology Pro 9 Reference 2009 speaker cables, which provide improved body and bass compared to the Furutech FP-Alpha stranded cables I was using (although the FP-Alpha are also quite good).

In 2012 I will be looking at a computer audio source, although I will be patient as things evolve, since I am still satisfied with playing hard discs. As downloads become more available, I can always burn them to a DVD and play them on either of my players.

One new piece I will be trying in early 2012 is the Purity Harmony buffer, which does have two tubes in it. Between my preamp and amps, the buffer would perform the conversion from single-ended to balanced that I am now using Jensen transformers to achieve, and the buffer would also allow the use of long XLR cables since the buffer would be positioned near the preamp and not near the amps, like the transformers.

Best wishes to all for a happy and healthy 2012.

mitch2

Owner
Thanks for posting Mingles. I tried these when the original model from Herbie's twisted and didn't work well. I believe Herbie's have improved their offering but it is always fun to try things yourself. My biggest "bang for the buck" was making my own carbon fiber CD mats, although I have also made air platforms, constrained layer platforms, and all my own cables (most recently using bulk cable from Furutech).

mitch2

Owner
Hi Lewinskih01, thanks for the comments. This system has given me much enjoyment, both listening and also trying new gear and tweeking around. The LL2 D remains competitive with any preamplifier I have heard. It is a wonderful piece but I have decided to sell it and currently have it posted. Even though it works well running through Jensen transformers into the balanced Claytons, I am in the process of receiving a balanced source and I would like to try a fully balanced preamp.

I gave up on the Purist cables a while ago. I couldn't find the sound I was looking for while keeping with their more reasonable priced cables, up through the Venustas. All of the Purist cables I have tried are very quiet, but I found the Venustas to have a very slight touch of edgy silver sound that I didn't care for. Aqueous Anniversary was nice, but I wanted to try something new. I have since been using DIY cables made from Furutech's best bulk cable and connectors, as well as a variety of DIY IC's from raw wire/materials. I have used Oyaide connectors on some bulk Furutech cable PC's with good results. My only manufactured cables are two Isoclean Auto Focus power cords on the Claytons, and AZ Double Barrel speaker cables, which sound very good in my system.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: Clayton M300 Class A monoblock amps replaced Clayton M200 amps. For my speakers, and listening preferences, I cannot imagine much better sounding amps. Also, decided to sell the TEAD Vibe/Pulse II and am continuing to use the very musical Lamm LL2 Deluxe with NOS Mullards.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: More changes for the new year. I recently replaced my Lamm M1.1's with Clayton M200 monoblocks, which provide a more neutral presentation, tighter bass, better extended high frequencies, and never run out of steam with my 90dB Aerials. The trade-off is less of that powerful, full, rich Lamm sound that was very seductive, although a little dark sounding and maybe richer than life. The Clayton's also lean a slight bit to the warm, rich, full side of things, but nowhere near as far over as the Lamm's. Both are very fun to listen to, and it would be hard for me to declare a clear preference. In the final equation, the Claytons are newer, do not have tubes to mess with, and came with a warranty vs. the Lamm's that were 12 years old. I have also changed out my Lamm LL2 Deluxe preamp for the Tom Evans Vibe with Pulse 2 that I have owned before. The TEAD is IMO one of the best sounding SS preamps, and also the quietest preamp I have owned. It is very musical with well-balanced dynamics and good dimensionality. I am currently messing around with a variety of DIY cables, but otherwise I am pleased with the changes.

mitch2

Owner
Ok, but if you ever do want to evaluate, the offer is open. OTOH, I don't see my set-up changing much, so I may sell them since they are longer than I currently need.

I have made a variety of Chris' power cords since he first came out with the recipes using the 12awg Belden fire wire. They all sound pretty good. Right now, I have one VH Audio made Flavor 4 in the house and several of my versions using his star quad wire, some shielded and some not. I run two 1M versions of the micro-bearing Flavor 4 (unshielded) directly from two dedicated lines - one to each of my monoblocks. I think the 10awg star quad wire is very good in that application.

The rubber hose Chris uses, damps his cords pretty well, so they are quiet, but they also don't bend worth a darn. My micro-bearing versions are just as quiet, more flexible, and possibly more immune to vibration. Although there are probably differences, I cannot honestly say one is significantly better than the other, and the terminations may make an even bigger difference. I have used Wattgate regular and gold plugs, but I like the Furutech Gold and used those on my monoblock cords. I used Oyaide P-079 and C-079's on my two newer cords that I made using the Furutech alpha wire for my source and preamp, and I would probably go with Oyaide on any future cords. Differences in the sound of the Flavor 4 cords between the VH Audio version and my micro-bearing version could be greater in systems that struggle with power issues, since my system has; short cord lengths, dedicated lines, lack of RFI/EMI (our neighborhood power/phone is underground and we are not in an urban environment), and possibly less vibration due to the system being in a slab-on-grade room with carpet.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: After neglecting this page for awhile, I have finally updated my virtual system to reflect the equipment I am using now. Based on my listening preferences, things are pretty close to an ideal, although I am sure I can still find stuff to try and change (just can't give it up!). Cables and CD player are two areas I have been looking at. Finally, I just realized I have neglected to reply to Sherod who posted back in May about my DIY Flavor 4 power cords, so Sherod if you want to try one, I will ship it to you as long as you send it back. I have a couple that are too long (about 2M) for my present set up - just let me know if you are interested.

mitch2

Owner
Hi Karel - I really do have to update this page soon. I have sold the McCormack and now use Cary 500MB monos, and my preamp is a Lamm LL2, which I find to sound a touch similar but overall better than the TEAD Vibe/Pulse. I sold my Venustas speaker cables because I believed the silver/copper cables were tonally tipping up the midrange. I am not a fan of silver, in general. After trying a couple of others, I settled in on Purist Aqueous Anniversary speaker cables (copper and gold) in a true bi-wire run 6 feet in length. I am fortunate I can use short cables, and could possibly go as short as 1M. I would really like to try Proteus Provectus speaker cables but wow - $$$! I am still using Venustas IC's from my preamp to the amps and Aqueous Anniversary from my CDP to the preamp, and that combination seems to be fine. The Purist line has a lot going for it in my opinion.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: Time to post about my recent system changes, which involve moving my main system into our lower level so I can listen to music when I want, while the rest of the family watches television upstairs. I was able to keep an HT setup upstairs where I also use a second Lector CDP 7TL MkIII for playing music. The new room is about 19 by 45 feet in size, although the listening area is only about 19 by 20 feet, and a pool table is located in the remaining area. The room has 9 foot tall ceilings, is carpeted, and has daylight windows with cellular blinds on two sides. I have configured my system in a modified corner setup, which provides suitable soundstaging at the main listening position, and also projects music into the room for everyone’s enjoyment when guests are over. I am pretty satisfied with my current components and speakers, and do not anticipate significant changes in the foreseeable future, although I may try another tubed preamp just for kicks. The Lector CDP has been the final touch in making this system fun to listen to. The music is coherent, rich and juicy, with a solid bass foundation. By comparison, the SS CD players I tried were too neutral, and did not involve me the way the Lector does. Since I own two of them, I can say without hesitation, that the Lector is musical regardless of whether it is paired with my main two channel components or with an HT receiver. I have not yet attempted significant room treatments, although I believe the size of the room, and the corner placement of the system, help in taming early reflections off the walls. Also, the room is adequately damped by the carpeting and stuffed furniture, and the wall behind the speakers is insulated with fiberglass batting. I have provided significant vibration control by using Zoethecus Z-slab platforms under all components, except the Lector, which is supported by Black Diamond cones over a Black Diamond platform, then Herbies tenderfeet and finally an air platform. This isolation goes from hardest to softest, and I find it to be excellent for the Lector. Comments are welcome.

mitch2

Owner
Hi Ben,

They came from a company in California, and were packed extremely well and shipped to me in Michigan. They are made of 5/4 quartersawn red oak, and are constructed to a point which strikes a balance between something that looks good but is not exorbitantly expensive. If you go through a custom woodworker, you would likely get better wood (white oak or cherry) and somewhat better construction but at least double the price - at least that is what I found. These generally match some of our other furniture and offer a look that is better for our main living space than open air racks. My amp is in the center of the long lower piece, and I have two very quiet computer fans that keep the amp compartment cool. I will try and locate a link to the furniture and e-mail it to you. - Tim

mitch2

Owner
System edited: Finally, a solid state preamp that can make me forget about tubes. At this point, I am very happy with the sound of this system. I do not see myself changing speakers, amp, or preamp any time soon. The Ayre CX-7e source is also quite good, and the interface with that unit is outstanding. The preamp choice was hardest, and I heard several top notch tube and solid state preamps before hearing the Vibe with Pulse and adding it to my system. I am not sure how the Pulse II could further improve on the sound I am getting but I plan to upgrade and I look forward to hearing the improvements.

mitch2

Owner
Hi Randy, I certainly understand the pleasure to be had from the Circes. I honestly think if I had used them in a dedicated listening room with acoustic treatments, and driven by an all tube system, I could have made them work on a wider variety of my music collection. However, for now, the more conventional Aerials and SS gear works better in my living room/HT set up. The more I listen, I think the problem I had with the Circe involved a mid-bass suck-out and a lack of punch in the mid-bass. I think Carl tried to correct that with the dual 8 inch bass drivers used in the Viper, and has taken it even further by using twin Seas Excel cast magnesium bass drivers in the Viper Reference. I would like to hear a pair of those. I wish I could have made the Circe's work with my gear and in my room, because I do miss the midrange and soundstaging, which were outstanding.

mitch2

Owner
System edited: After finally getting my system to where I thought it should be, I realized I was not satisified with the result. I had totally upgraded my Alon V's to Circes, and even added a SF Line 3 SE. The result was absolutely wonderful performance on about 20% of my music collection, but something less on the other 80%. Either the Alon's are just not cut out for SS gear, or they are not voiced for rock music. The new Aerial 9's have proven much better at integrating with my SS system, and performing well on a wide variety of music. Their strengths include a tight driving bass and mid-bass, and open midrange. I do miss the Alon's when I play certain CD's. They had a way of making you believe the performer was in the room, on certain music, especially through the SF tube pre. I believe there may be a better SS preamp out there for me, but I want to stay all balanced and need the HT pass-through. The Muse is good, and bettered the SF Line 3 SE on bass and quietness, but does not provide the dimensionality of the SF tube unit. I have considered the Sim P5 LE or Calypso, and would be interested in recommendations.

mitch2

Owner
Ok, good point, time to get of my duff and post about the updates, which are many, including the room. I will take some new pictures and get it done before the end of the week.

mitch2

Owner
Hi Larry,

Yes I did, and there was certainly a noticable improvement. What I notice about the new tweeters most, are they seem not as forward, and as a result more natural, and they are much smoother on decay. The woofers convey more textural images, so the bass notes actually sound like they belong to specific instruments. Not that the upgraded MKIII woofers were bad, just that the alnico version sounds more accurate, with less distortion to mask the specific instrument sounds. I also now use Alon's Thunderbolt sub, cut off at its lowest level, to add just a touch of the very bottom, which improves the rock music performance of these speakers. All in all, I am very happy with them, except for my speaker wire quest....but that is another story.

mitch2

Owner
Thanks Norfish, for the kind response. They look better in person than in those pictures. One thing that helped was the thick veneer used by Alon, since I had to "scour" some of the black out of the grooves in the oak using a small nylon (and sometimes brass) brush. However, after removing the black laquer, and a little light sanding, they took the new stain very well. They are finished off with a sanding sealer and 9 light coats of laquer finish. If I had to do it again, I would definitely take them totally apart and have the cabinets professionally dipped in a chemical remover, which would probably be stronger than the zip-strip I used. Thanks again.

mitch2

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